Trip to serene Sarnath, A Buddhist Site

I believe not many are aware that Sarnath, the place where Gautama Buddha gave his first sermon is very close to Varanasi. Neither we were aware of this, when we visited Varanasi in August 2013. We came to know that Sarnath is just 13 km away, when we were returning back to our hotel after visiting Kashi Vishwanath Temple in the morning. Ganga Aarti, a must watch spectacle in Varanasi was later in the evening. So, we made a quick decision to visit Sarnath, with a resolve to come back before Ganga Aarti at Dashashwamedh Ghat at 6 pm!

Tranquility : We hired the same auto rickshaw to drop us to Sarnath. First impression of Sarnath was of a serene place, quite a contrast to chaotic Varanasi! Only thing which was preventing us from enjoying the tranquility of the place was the scorching heat! Giant statue of standing Buddha caught our attention immediately. It was the statue of Buddha at the Thai Temple in Sarnath.

Archaeological Museum(ASI Museum), Sarnath

Sarnath Museum : Sarnath Museum established in 1910 contains the Lion Capital of Ashoka, from which the National Emblem of India is derived. But to our disappointment it was closed as it was a government holiday. The historical building with green lawn around it, was a treat to watch.

Dhamek Stupa amidst excavated site in Sarnath

Dhamek Stupa (also called Dhamekh or Dhamekha Stupa) :- One of the prominent structures in Sarnath, Dhamek Stupa was originally called Dharma Chakra Stupa. It is believed to be the spot where Buddha gave his first sermon after enlightenment. Diameter of the cylindrical tower is 28.5 meters at the base and it is 33.35 meters in height. Total height of the structure is 42.6 meters including the foundation. We could not go near the Stupa as it was barricaded. So, after having a look at the Stupa, we went to the Jain temple nearby. More details on that in the upcoming post.

Remnants of Ashokan Pillar, Sarnath

History coming alive: Near the Dhamek Stupa is the ASI excavation site which is maintained well. One interesting thing to look out here is the fragment Ashokan Pillar, which was 15.25 meters high, made of Chunar sandstone. It was once surmounted by the Lion Capital of Ashoka, which is now kept in the Sarnath Museum. In the ASI inscription at the site, it was mentioned that an edict of King Ashoka is present in the pillar. In the edict, the king warns the monks and nuns against creating schism in the sangha. While reading this, I was reminded of the Kannada novel, Chitadanta by K N Ganeshaiah, where he explains how King Ashoka had created a Naraka(hell) in his kingdom, where the wrong doers were put to severe punishment. You can also find remnants of Mulagandha Kuti, a huge temple, where Lord Buddha used to sit for meditation. According famed Chinese traveler, Hieun Tsang, the inscription their said its height was 61 meters. The temple which was constructed during the Gupta period, was raised on a square platform with each side measuring 18.29 meters. For me, knowing all these details at the very site where all it happened, was enthralling as the well-known historical figures were appearing right before me!

Buddha Statue, Ashoka Chakra inside Thai Temple premises, Sarnath

Wat Thai (Thai Temple) : Finally, we were at Thai Temple. Standing Buddha statue here is 80 feet tall. Interestingly, decision to build the statue was taken after the Taliban destroyed the Bamiyan Buddha statues in Afghanistan. Other than the Buddha statue, courtyard of Wat Thai has a beautiful garden. Also, one can find replica of Ashoka Pillar and Ashoka Chakra. While leaving, I noticed the doctrines of Dhamma Pada written on the compound wall – "Do Good and Be Good, Not to do any evil, To cultivate good, To purify one’s mind – This is the advice of the Buddhas."

Wat Thai (Thai Temple), Sarnath

Other Temples : One can notice that like Thailand, other Asian countries where Buddhism had a towering influence - Japan, Tibet, Sri Lanka and Myanmar have established their temples/monasteries in Sarnath. It was a proud moment for me as an Indian. We could not visit all of them but you must if you have time for observing different architecture elements at one place!

80 feet tall Buddha Statue, Sarnath

Purchases: Statues of Buddha made of sandstone, mud were on display in most of the street shops. I bought the Buddha statue made of mud unaware that it could create issues during my check in at the airport! Ok, it so happened that I carried the statue in my cabin baggage thinking if I put it in my check in baggage, they would definitely break for obvious reasons. During the security check of cabin baggage, I was asked to stop after the security in-charge noticed the hard substance. I was asked for an explanation for which I replied it was a Buddha statue made of mud. He seemed satisfied with the explanation and I was let go. Other than souvenirs, one could also purchase Banarasi sarees here in Sarnath avoiding the crowded shops in Varanasi.

Dhamek Stupa, Sarnath, Varanasi

ASI excavated site at Sarnath, Varanasi

Statues of Buddha on sale, Sarnath

Replica of Ashoka Pillar, Sarnath

Courtyard of Thai Temple, Sarnath